IN PRAISE OF WHITEBAIT SANDWICHES

AND GOLDEN BAY AIR:

HEAPHY TRACK TRIP REPORT

SEPTEMBER 2011

Photos click here

The selection of a team to undertake the Heaphy crossing took place over several months. Some people were just sensible. Others eliminated themselves with excuses, which (in their own words) included “the wife’s birthday” (Mike Faherty), the “MTB wimps” (Dave Levick) and “lack of experience” (Dave Flynn).

Never letting marital bliss and experience put them off the final team comprised Gavin Cho, Tim and Bill Blackmore, Frank Geoghegan, Rick Holmes and Ollie Gilbert.

Once the dates were agreed, flights were booked with Golden Bay Air and huts with DOC. Exhaustive discussion took place over food, gear and what conditions to expect. Every possible source of knowledge was minutely researched. Bikes were serviced and upgraded, and finally we assembled at the Cho mansion in Hataitai on 7 September. Thankfully Tim had left the wok at home.

The sight of 6 aged gents in lycra wheeling bikes through the airport lounge shopping precinct  on level 2  to the departure gate would have been something to behold.

 

2 planes were required, with seats removed to accommodate the disassembled bikes. We flew to the Takaka airstrip assembled our trusty steeds, and then took a shuttle to Brown Hut at the start of the track.

 It was dark and beginning to rain, but fortunately there were 2 other riders already in the hut with the fire going. Our presence seemed to drive them outside where Tim did his best to achieve a bond. The rest of us were concerned about a possible Brokeback happening, and he eventually returned from the haze with a very satisfied smile on his face.  The Mrs Geoghegan/Mrs Gilbert bacon & egg bake-off was a split decision which seemed after a couple of bottles of red to ease the tension and satisfy both contenders

Although it rained all night, we woke to a pleasant day and set off in good time for the Perry Saddle, the highest point on the track, and our planned lunch stop. 



The track up the hill was very rocky and much harder 
than we had imagined. A number of us had falls, and chose to walk the tricky bits. The difficulty was compounded by the extra weight of food, clothing and grog.  

After lunch in the sun at the Perry Saddle hut, we rode on to the Saxon hut. This is a very pleasant spot high in the red tussock. 

Frank was hallucinating that there would be Swedish masseuses to attend to our aching bodies, but unfortunately apart from numerous Weka we had the place to ourselves. As with the other DOC huts, gas cookers were provided, plus copious firewood. Dinner was preceded with Tequila shots and wine courtesy of Bros Blackmore, and followed bycards.  The night excursion to local a kiwi was a dismal failure with Ric’s endless Kweerwee mating calls not attracting any randy nocturnal national icons.

Saturday started cold and drizzly, but cleared later. The track across the high tussock cover plateau  to MacKay Hut is relatively easy, and we regrouped there to thaw out.   

From there to the Lewis Hut is largely downhill, with muddy stretches and some unrideable bits.

The best fall of the trip saw Frank cast upside down in a creek bed with his bike on top, after unravelling his bike from on top of him, flexible Frank was hauled to this feet without a scratch

Gears, chains and brakes were becoming clogged with mud, so it was a bike clean for all in the Heaphy River, then lunch at Lewis Hut. Several riders changed brake pads, but there was more grief ahead.

The section to the Heaphy Hut is described as relatively flat. We had been warned of the difficulties of wheeling bikes over swing bridges, so chose to ford the rivers. DOC had been working on the track. Stretches that had been muddy were covered in sand.  This was a mixed blessing as it was not compacted, so was difficult to ride. The sand also got into chains, gears and brakes. Tim had an interesting fall on a dead flat section of track. Bill’s pedal came off, and Frank managed to get his helmet cam caught in a vine causing him to do a back flip and take out Gavin who had elected to pass at that very moment.

The Heaphy Hut was a welcome sight. Some cleaned off with a swim, and managed to avoid the sand flies. The Blackmores produced yet more alcohol, and after dinner we again had cards by candle light.

The ride out to the track end on Sunday was along the spectacular coastal strip through groves of nikaus, and along deserted beaches. Sand in the gears was an ever present problem.

Meanwhile the rain had set in. We got to the end of the track and phoned Golden Bay Air, to be told that due to the low cloud cover, we should ride to the Karamea Pub whilst they reviewed flying conditions. It was there we got welcome hot showers, followed by a beer and whitebait sandwiches!

We were collected by a shuttle, and after briefly testing Westport Airport, were driven to Nelson for flights home.

 To anyone planning such a trip, take a spare set of brake pads, chain lube and other spares, including, as Frank discovered on day 1, those little counter sunk screws that hold your cleats on. Apart from a broken cleat the only other mechanicals were  a couple of punctures in the group, due to snake bites (low tyre pressure on sharp rocks) rather than thorns or such like.

Another must have are the freeload bikes carriers  and dry bags to haul all the grog and a change of clothes.  The set up that seemed preferred was a freeload carrier back and optional front and a small day pack on your back.  To keep the weather out robust water proof pack/dry bags appeared to work best.  Panniers would prove difficult if you needed cross any of the narrow swing bridges.  

The weather is unpredictable, so take changes of clothes, but try and limit the amount you carry. All the wet stuff we managed to dry over night so you don’t need too much gear, extra weight on the more technical sections caused numerous falls. Finally, an unsolicited endorsement for Golden Bay Air. They provided an exceptional service, going well beyond our expectations to ensure that we all got home
safely.